Location: Kleiner Ochs’nbrater in Viktualienmarkt
Munich is a beautiful city with lovely people. The architecture is stunning, the public transit is organized, and the people are more than willing to speak to you in your native English (even though you are in their country) because they are better than you. Even the humble food stalls in the Viktualienmarkt have a cozy, welcoming feel to them. Though the city was in the middle of a mid-winter blizzard, this food stall had a covered tent attached with ample seating for customers. Cushions and blankets had been carefully laid out on the foldable chairs and tables for extra comfort. We sat beneath the warming glow of a couple of outdoor restaurant heaters; the first that I’ve seen that did not look like they were about to set the whole place on fire. Two tent attendants were quickly tidying up after customers, talking soccer, and making fun of each other for their respective homelands (Poland and Cuba, I believe). The scene was perfect for a tall beer and tasty sandwich.
I needed to begin this entry with something nice, because this sandwich is probably not for everyone. The direct translation of the sandwich’s name is “liver cheese bread” and reminded me a bit of liverwurst or a quality mortadella. For the folks that have seen the videos of hotdogs being produced, I can imagine a similar process going in to creating the emulsified meat mixture that was baked into a bread loaf shape and served on a round wheat roll. I have seen those disgusting hot dog videos, and I have been to McDonalds even after I saw Super Size Me. I am not easily deterred. I ordered one at the recommendation of a local and immediately ordered a second after finishing the first. Leberkäse is best eaten with the Bavarian sweet mustard that the stand had available in a giant gallon jug. They were salty, they were comfort food, and they were deeply satisfying.